The Glock 30S is an appropriate size for a .45ACP. Its grip is identical to that of the G30SF, placing it in the “much fatter than a G26 grip” classification. The G30S’s dimensions are fairly similar to those of a G36.
They are indeed a solid choice. But no gun is without fault.
The most common Glock 30S problems are failure to feed, failure to extract, slide lock issues, jamming at the feed ramp, and trigger and trigger bar issues.
I will give you the solution to these common issues in this article. Additionally, you will get authentic reviews from users as well. So, stay tuned!
Features & Specifications of Glock 30S:
|Barrel Length||3.77 inches|
|Magazine Capacity||Standard: 10 Optional: 9 / 13|
|Overall Length||6.96 inches|
|Twist Rate||400 mm / 15.75 in|
|Sights||Polymer “U” dot configuration (Trijicon).|
|Safety||Striker-fired operating system: Safe Action|
|Weight||With loaded magazine 855 g Without magazine 575 g|
|Trigger Pull||28 N|
Common Glock 30s Problems and Solutions
|Failure to Feed||Troubleshoot the bolt over base failure and RSA.|
|Failure to Extract||Troubleshoot RSA.|
|Slide Lock Issues||Troubleshoot or replace slide stop spring.|
|Jamming at Feed Ramp||Change 30SF frame.|
|Trigger and Trigger Bar Issues||Troubleshoot or replace with Gen 3 trigger.|
1. Failure to Feed:
One or two jams of the fail-to-feed variety per 200 rounds are the issue. The bullet appears to be trying to enter the chamber but is being blocked by the mouth since it is pointing upward.
It is known as a “bolt over base” failure when the slide catches the extraction groove. So, the magazine doesn’t get the next round into position in time. This results in the nose up jam of the bullet.
An “extra power” recoil spring can also cause it if you go overboard by making the slide outrun the magazine spring.
Examine the magazine for FOD that hinders the smooth and rapid movement of the round stack. Also check feed lips that are too widely open, burrs or flash on the follower, or weak magazine springs. Replace the spring and polish the burrs when necessary.
2. Failure to Extract:
The problem starts after around 20 rounds of the magazine have been used. The shell is left in the chamber keeping the next shell from loading. The shell rests angled up.
After 126 rounds, there should be an expected buildup on the extractor. The case mouth edge of the top/first round in the magazine may be caught on the bottom edge of the rim of the case as it is being withdrawn.
The issue might get “worse” or “better” based on how much the case mouth’s edge protrudes away from the bullet.
This could account for why how it “feels” changes periodically. It might be impacted by various ammunition kinds, brands, or even changes in how bullets seat or crimp inside a single box of ammunition.
Fix the buildup by polishing and or cleaning the gun. Make sure you lubricated the gun after polishing. The case mouth protrusion can be fixed under the supervision of an expert gunsmith by reducing the protrusion.
3. Slide Lock Issues:
The slide would not stay locked back while adding a magazine, loaded or unloaded when it is in the slide lock position. The slide would move quickly and even fire a shot from a filled magazine.
Upon a forceful mag insertion, many Glocks will almost instantly drop a slide. For Glocks, this might be regarded as typical.
A bad slide stop spring may also cause this issue. Moreover, change of any factory parts does it as well!
If you don’t like the drop slide, you can prevent the slide from “dropping” by inserting the magazine smoothly while using strong pressure as opposed to smashing it into the grip. Try the pistol with factory ammo and barrel.
Ensure that the mag assembly only contains the base plate, the mag insert, and the appropriate stock spring and follower. Install the Glock slide stop spring to prevent slide stop problems if these don’t work. This video can help with that.
4. Jamming at Feed Ramp:
The round’s nose will occasionally go up and become stuck at the top of the feed ramp. Usually, it occurs on the final one or two rounds in the magazine.
The likely culprit is the Glock 30S frame. To determine where the problem still exists, switch the entire uppers between the two frames.
If you can find a conventional Glock 30 frame, drop your 30SF slide on it, and it will function like a bullet hose.
Get a new Gen 3 Glock 30 frame if you don’t care about the serial numbers not matching. It is a non- SF frame.
5. Trigger and Trigger Bar Issues:
New 30S trigger is more difficult to pull and feels like a brick wall. Even after thoroughly cleaning and polishing the weapon, the results will be awful.
A drag could be caused by the trigger spring being hung on one side. Otherwise, the heavier spring on the rifle could be problematic.
The bump they put to the Gen 4 trigger bars is to blame for the failure to return to the battery issue.
Disassemble the pistol completely, then use a Dremel to clean the connector and every other trigger component. See if this fixes the problem.
Or let everything lap in by shooting the Glock 30S. You may also install the Glock OEM 4.5 lb connector and swap out the serrated trigger for a smooth OEM version. Put in a Gen 3 trigger bar replacing a Gen 4 one.
User Feedback on Glock 30S
People weren’t sure how much thinner the 30S could feel given the difference on paper appears to be so little when it launched. However, the lighter slide has little effect on felt recoil. And the smaller slide significantly improves IWB carry comfort.
Now, owners would hardly ever part with their Glock 30S. Since the 30S entered the lineup, it has developed into a safe queen. It is quite accurate and trustworthy.
It is easy to carry and contains a lot of ammo as well. The 9-round magazine can also be used for added concealability. It’s a cute little hybrid.
Due to the mass and stroke velocity of the G36 slide, the gun recoils like a G36. With the larger G30SF grip, the G36’s typical sharpness is somewhat missing in this one. The weight loss due to the reduced slide girth is apparent but not significant.
Nevertheless, the jamming problems do haunt the owners. But overall, owners are happy and prefer it as a daily EDC.
Top 3 Alternative Guns of Glock 30S
Glock 29 SF:
The Glock 29 SF is a tough 10mm cartridge pistol that can be used for hunting or self-defense. It doesn’t have many failures to fire, ejection problems, stoppages, or failures to feed. This makes it the ideal substitute!
The Glock 19 is a semi-automatic pistol that fires 9mm short-recoil rounds. This is an excellent gun to carry because of the polymer, white dot front, and u-shaped white outline rear sights.
Another striker-fired polymer pistol with a modified Browning breech locking mechanism is the Glock 36. It is a.45 caliber firearm with a Safe Action trigger that is partially pre-tensioned and has a steady trigger pull.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
What is Limp Wristing?
Limp-wristing is an ejection failure brought on by the slide snagging the empty as it advances and sliding along with it, causing a “stovepipe” style jam.
What is the part number for the G30SF extractor?
The part number is 1906.
What is the difference between the Glock 30S and the 30SF?
The size of the backstrap is the only distinction between the 30S and 30SF. The 30S has a 2mm smaller grip and a 2mm closer distance between the rear of the strap and the trigger.
Does the 30S have Gen 4 trigger internals?
Not necessarily. But Gen 3 uses Gen 4 trigger parts.
What kind of housing does the G30SF use?
The 30SF uses a Gen 4 housing because the Gen 4 is itself based on the SF frame.
The Glock 30S is among the very best petite 45 ACP. The ideal proportion between size and capacity. with 8, 9, 10, and 13-round magazines. It is better for carrying than the G30 and shoots decent.
Despite having a very few resolvable Glock 30S problems, they are simple and convenient to carry thanks to the slim frame. The G30S delivers more reliable firepower than any carry handgun of its size. So I would suggest you go for it!
This is a great article. Thank you for writing this. I have a 30S that I constantly have issues with. At least once per 10 rd mag I will have a failure. The failure that I have is like a failure to feed, but a little different. The bullet doesn’t point upwards and sometimes will be in the chamber and the slide still gets hung up somewhere. Sometimes it’ll be an 1/8th of an inch away from returning into battery. When it happens, I can even bring the gun down to observe the failure and the slide will at random snap forward that 1/8th inch and then will fire again. When this occurs the slide may be anywhere from 1/8” to 1/2” away from returning forward and running home. I never have any other types of failures with it. It happens with different shooters and different ammo. Ruling out limp wristing. All parts are stock.
I have sent it to Glock and they have gone through it and replaced a few parts. Since then I’ve shot maybe 200 rds and it has not gotten better. Going forward I am going to give the firearm a deep cleaning, disassemble mags & clean, test once more. If it still fails, I believe I will send it back to Glock once more.
If anyone has any ideas please chime in. Thank you.