The internal modifications distinguish the reintroduced Glock P80 from a Glock model 17 Gen 1 handgun. You also get a rollmark reading “P80” on the left side of the slide.
Are the P80 Glock 17 better? Well, I’ll let you decide for yourself by telling you the most common problems with it. The most common issues with the Polymer 80 Glock 17 are: slide problems, not cycling, trigger issues and ejection problem.
The solution to these issues has been discussed in this article. Solutions that don’t say “Get a real Glock!” The current experiences that the users have with this product are also included. To learn more, read the full article!
Features & Specifications of Polymer 80 Glock 17:
|Barrel Length||114 mm|
|Magazine Capacity||Standard: 17 Optional: 19 / 24 / 31 / 33|
|Overall Length||204 mm|
|Twist Rate||1:16″ RH|
|Dimensions||Width (Overall): 33 mm Height Incl. Mag.: 106 mm|
|Weight||With empty magazine: 705 g|
|Trigger Pull||28 N|
Common Polymer 80 Glock 17 Problems and Solutions
|Slide Problems||Troubleshoot interior.|
|Not Cycling||Troubleshoot magazine and other Glock parts.|
|Trigger Issues||Troubleshoot connector and trigger bar area.|
|Ejection Problem||Troubleshoot RSA and lubricate.|
1. Slide Problems
A front locking block issue includes not getting the slide on at all. When you try to bring the slide back after mating the frame and slide, it begins to bind and refuse to move.
This is the most common problem with this model.
As it is being pulled back, the barrel rubs the finish off the bottom side of the barrel as it makes contact with the bottom portion of the slide.
It could be necessary to remove more material from the grip frame’s section where you “hog out” materials (when the material is removed for the RSA).
Additionally, either your slide or barrel are slightly out of tolerance. Or all of the parts are subject to tolerance stacking.
The interior of the front locking block should be thoroughly flushed out.
Anything that has to be removed needs to be done so.
For the final finishing of the channel, use a drill bit the same size as the recoil spring wrapped in sandpaper.
2. Not Cycling
When you put more than three bullets in the magazine, the gun won’t cycle. After the final round, it cycles and locks perfectly with 3 or fewer bullets (usually).
The tolerances on a Polymer 80 are typically a little tighter than those on a stock Glock.
Consequently, you must search for those locations of the rails where you might be experiencing any binding.
Try a factory-issued Glock magazine. Additionally, try adding a Glock 17 slide if that doesn’t make it better.
If that doesn’t repair it either, try inserting a Glock 17 frame. That should be effective.
3. Trigger Issues
The trigger is shifted into the firing position by racking the slide. However, the firing pin or striker does not release when the trigger is pressed.
The trigger bar is not depressed by the connector, preventing the cruciform from dropping and disengaging from the striker.
The connector barely moves past the trigger bar.
Additionally, there may be some polymer extending past the right rail in the area next to the trigger housing. And the area where the trigger bar slides by may have some too.
Try bending the connector or slightly filing the cruciform.
Alternatively, you could swap out the existing connector for an OEM 5 lb Dot or 5.5-pound unmarked one.
The trigger bars can’t fully retract because of the cut bump in the rail’s recurve. Use a fine sanding wheel to eliminate the bump and the sharp junction.
4. Ejection Problem
The slide won’t move back when the shot is fired, and the gun won’t even eject the spent casing.
The mag is forced out of the bottom whether or not the case is ejected.
There might be other less evident locations that require additional filing or sanding. A recoil spring issue is also possible.
Verify that the RSA is not rubbing and that your RSA channel is clear.
Also, verify that the spring on your slide takedown lever is positioned below the RSA channel’s floor.
Grease the slide grooves by painting them, then rack the slide several times.
User Feedback on Polymer 80 Glock 17
Goodness! Aren’t the users torn between pro-P80 and anti-P80! Some people feel that compared to OEM Glock, the P80 Strike frame is superior.
Clearly, some people would shudder at the idea of changing anything factory! However, you can hardly go wrong with a polymer 80-building strategy. Because you have a tested (full) firearm that will serve you well for the rest of your life.
Second, your 80% of lower can be tested using an upper assembly that has a track record of success.
Third, if you want to test out your “Gucci” slide, barrel, and recoil spring assembly, you also have a tried-and-true frame that you can utilize
In my opinion, it seems like it’s not the wrong swap, it’s at which proficiency level you do it. Don’t swap to P80 if you’re a beginner.
Top 3 Alternative Guns of Polymer 80 Glock 17
Based on comparing the specs, features, practicality, and performance, I have found the 3 best alternatives to Polymer 80 Glock 17.
Polymer 80 Glock 19
Build-wise, it is straightforward. If you use Brownells RMR slides, it is going to run great! Make sure you use parts wisely.
Polymer 80 Glock 21
To break in, around 100 ball rounds are required. Then it immediately becomes smooth.
This one pairs perfectly with the Lone Wolf custom slide’s RDS cutout and front and rear serrations in the style of a 1911 pistol!
Polymer 80 Glock 43
Currently, Polymer 80 offers a single stack G43 frame that you can construct yourself. This frame appears to have improved ergonomics.
Now in front of it is the guide rod piece that needs to be filed or machined out. This makes using a dremel tool more simpler.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Is a polymer 80 as good as a Glock?
Will a polymer 80 fit in a Glock holster?
No, It doesn’t quite fit in.
What holsters fit PF940C?
Vedder LightTuck™ IWB Holster.
Will PF940C fit in Glock 19 holster?
Is polymer 80 discontinued?
No, they are still available.
A Polymer 80 Glock 17 build wouldn’t be a good choice for learning how to shoot. It’s more of a puzzle or challenge for an experienced gun tinker and will be extremely frustrating if you run into a snag.
But you can do it at a later stage. In that regard, I also believe that having a working Glock in the size you’re making is a tremendous benefit.
Because you can swap out components and identify problems. You should purchase a Glock 17. Learn to use it well. Then you might think about switching the OEM frame out for an 80% frame.